From 27 September to 10 October 2024, my wife and I went on a self-organized 14-day vacation to Puglia, in the very south of Italy.
It wasn’t a dedicated birding trip (my wife would rebel if it were!), but I certainly did fit in some birding while there. 

Please find below some general information about the region and about the places we visited:

General

Puglia is a region in the southeastern part of Italy, better known to most people as the "heel" of Italy. It borders both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. The capital of the region is Bari, which is also its largest city. Puglia, known as Apulia by locals, is famous for many things. Olive trees and beautiful vineyards are found everywhere, making it home to some of Italy's largest wine producers. In terms of accommodation, the "trulli" are iconic for this region, with their cute, cone-shaped roofs being instantly recognizable.

Architecture - Trulli

The trulli are the symbol of Puglia. These uniquely shaped houses are mainly found in the area around Alberobello but can also be seen in other parts of Puglia. A trullo has a round shape with a conical roof. The first trulli were built in the 15th century. Originally, they were constructed without cement, so they could be quickly dismantled to avoid paying taxes. Today, trulli are a popular tourist attraction and are considered an important part of the region's culture and heritage. Many have been restored and converted into tourist accommodations, offering visitors the chance to experience this unique architecture from the inside. The trulli of Puglia are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Charming Towns

Puglia consists of five provinces in southern Italy, each with its own beautiful towns, culture, and history. During a tour of Puglia, you'll be surprised by the picturesque views, impressive castles, and beautiful nature reserves!

Here are the best places we visited:

Central Puglia / Bari Area

Castel del Monte (GPS: 41.084614, 16.271371)
Castel del Monte lies 50km west of Bari and is the most beautiful castle in Puglia. The castle has a unique octagonal shape, giving it the appearance of a perfect octagon from every angle. This shape is repeated throughout the building, with eight corners visible in every room. It was built in the 13th century by Emperor Frederick II. Its purpose remains a mystery, as it was unsuitable for living or defense. Some sources suggest Frederick II wanted to create a perfect castle. After falling into disrepair in the 19th century, the castle was bought by the Italian state and fully restored, although the original marble decorations and statues were never replaced. The castle is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts visitors from around the world every year.

Trani
30km northwest of Bari, Trani is a beautiful historic city on Italy’s eastern coast. Its harbor overlooks the Adriatic Sea, and here you’ll find the city’s most famous landmark, the Cathedral of Trani. The cathedral is renowned for its crypt, which houses the relics of San Nicola Pellegrino. Other notable sights include the Castello Svevo, which now houses a small museum, and the former Santa Maria di Colonna Monastery. Trani is a lovely place to sample local cuisine and visit the attractions. A pleasant walk around the harbor and historic center is highly recommended.

Bari
Bari is the largest city and capital of the Puglia region. Located on the Adriatic Sea, Bari’s port is one of Italy’s most important on this coast. The city was founded around 1500 BC by the Illyrians. It later fell under Roman rule, but many different civilizations have governed it over the centuries, leaving their mark on the city. The most significant site in Bari is the Basilica of Saint Nicholas, which houses the relics of St. Nicholas, known to us as Santa Claus. Other notable attractions include the 12th-century Bari Cathedral, Palazzo Fizzarotti, Castello Normanno-Svevo, and Palazzo della Provincia. Don't miss Via delle Orecchiette, a street where elderly women make the famous Pugliese pasta by hand.

Polignano a Mare
25km southeast of Bari, Polignano a Mare is a charming coastal town overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Known for its stunning cliffside views, it’s a popular destination for those seeking sun, sea, and relaxation. The town’s historic center features narrow winding streets and whitewashed buildings. The Palazzo Marchesale, an 18th-century palace open to the public in summer, is a key attraction. The city’s unique coastline, perched atop steep limestone cliffs, offers breathtaking views of the sea. Nearby Lama Monachile Beach is particularly popular, known for its crystal-clear waters and striking rock formations. The town also has two picturesque squares, Piazza San Benedetto and Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II, as well as the Arco Marchesale, one of the city gates leading to the historic center.

Putignano
35 km south of Bari. The first week of our holiday, we stayed at a B&B just outside Putignano. This place is a perfect base to explore the best places in the Bari area. The historic center of Putignano is steeped in ancient charm, with narrow streets, elegant squares, and beautiful architecture that reflect its rich past. We enjoyed the winding alleys and the beautifully preserved buildings, such as the imposing Cathedral of San Pietro, dating back to the 12th century, and the impressive Palazzo dei Marchesi di Altamura.
Putignano is famous for its carnival. The Carnival of Putignano is one of the oldest and most prestigious carnivals in Italy, with roots dating back to the Middle Ages. Every year, thousands of visitors from around the world come together to enjoy the colorful parades, extravagant costumes, and vibrant festivities that fill the streets of Putignano.

Monopoli
40 km east of Bari. Monopoli has traditionally been a true fishing village, with a beautiful old fishing port overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Nowadays, tourists have discovered Monopoli, especially because of the stunning sandy beaches found there. Like many other towns and villages in the area, the historic center of Monopoli has been well-preserved. Since many of the houses are painted white, the town has a lovely, cohesive appearance. Where fishermen once repaired their nets along the boulevards, you now find terraces and tourist shops. Yet Monopoli has not lost its charm, and there are still some delightful sights to see. The most famous attractions include the 12th-century cathedral and Palazzo Palmieri. The best seafood restaurants are located near the harbor.

Alberobello
40 km southeast of Bari. The most famous village in Puglia, known for its trulli. Because of these trulli, the village is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The trullo is the symbol of Puglia. In Alberobello, there are two complete neighborhoods almost entirely made up of these typical round houses. In total, there are about a thousand of these unique houses in Alberobello. Some trulli in Puglia are still inhabited, but many now serve as tourist shops, museums, or B&Bs.

The countryside around Alberobello (Valle d'Itria) is a patchwork of trulli, bright red poppies, blooming wildflowers, a secco stone walls (made by stacking stones without cement), and olive trees. These stone walls give the Pugliese landscape a unique character. It was also beneficial for the land since building these walls used stones from the soil of fields, vineyards, and olive groves, making the land much more fertile.

Locorotondo
50 km southeast of Bari and 10 km southeast of Alberobello. Locorotondo is one of the most beautiful villages in Puglia. The distinctive shape of the village, the characteristic houses, and the narrow streets in the center make Locorotondo a popular tourist attraction. The streets in Locorotondo are so narrow that cars sometimes cannot pass through. This makes Locorotondo one of the nicest villages in the region to visit on foot. You can walk along the various city gates, churches, and whitewashed houses. Since almost all the houses in Locorotondo are painted white, the vibrant colorful flowers stand out even more. Everywhere in the village, you can see climbing roses, bougainvillea, and hollyhocks. The main sights include Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, Chiesa Madra San Giorgio, and Madonna della Greca.

Martina Franca
8 km south of Locorotondo. Martina Franca is a small town in the inland region of Puglia. The town was founded at the beginning of the 14th century by the Prince of Taranto. In its early centuries, it was little more than a sleepy village where many shepherds and farmers lived with their families. The town's major economic growth came in the 18th century, and this is still evident today. Throughout the town, there are beautiful Baroque churches, buildings, and squares to be found. The main attractions are the Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Maria Immaculata (a great spot for lunch), and the Baroque churches Sant'Antonio, San Domenico, and Chiesa del Carmine.

Southeast Puglia / Lecce Area

Ostuni
25 km west of Brindisi. Ostuni is built on three hills and is one of the most beautiful smaller towns in Puglia. Since a large part of the houses in the historic center are whitewashed, Ostuni is nicknamed "La Città Bianca." Piazza della Libertà is the central square of Ostuni. From this square, you can walk to all the town's main attractions. The most notable attraction is the 14th-century Piazzetta Cattedrale. While walking uphill, you’ll come across beautiful white streets and narrow alleys. From certain spots, there are breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside, where you can see vineyards, the famous trulli, and the Adriatic Sea. In Piazza della Libertà stands the Guglia di Sant’Oronzo. From this column, Sant’Oronzo, the first bishop of Lecce, overlooks the town.

Lecce
35 km south of Brindisi. Lecce is the largest city in the inland region of Puglia. It is an ancient city founded in the 7th century BC by the Greeks. Later, Lecce became part of the Roman Empire, and the amphitheater of Lecce is a significant reminder of that era. The most important buildings in Lecce today were constructed in the 17th century in the Baroque style. Notable examples include Lecce Cathedral, the Basilica of Santa Croce, the Celestini Palace, and the Seminary. These structures have earned Lecce the nickname "The Florence of the Baroque."

During a visit to Lecce, you can stroll through the historic city center, which is still largely enclosed by walls. Inside these walls, you’ll find nearly all of Lecce’s main sights. After admiring the Baroque architecture, you can relax at one of the cozy terraces on the lively squares and enjoy the typical cuisine of Puglia. Lecce was our favorite city in Puglia!

Otranto
25 km southeast of Lecce. Otranto is a beautiful small village in the eastern part of the Puglia region. The village is located where the Adriatic Sea gradually merges into the Ionian Sea, making Otranto a popular spot for diving enthusiasts. The inland areas of Otranto are known for their vineyards. The two main attractions in the village are the Otranto Cathedral and Otranto Castle. The Otranto Cathedral was built in the 12th century on the remains of much older religious structures. The cathedral preserves the relics of 800 martyrs killed during the Ottoman attacks on Otranto, known as the Martyrs of Otranto. The imposing walls and accompanying city walls of Otranto Castle are the first things you see when you arrive in Otranto. Unfortunately, the castle is closed to the public for most of the year.

Maglie
35 km south of Lecce. Maglie is a small town known for its beautiful (and expensive) shops. It is not as touristy as the other towns in the area, making it a nice place to visit if you're nearby.

Culinary

The cuisine in Puglia is similar to that of other parts of Italy, featuring delicious pasta, pizza, and plenty of fresh produce. However, there are a few dishes and products that are unique to Puglia:

Orecchiette
Pasta This "little ear" pasta is still handmade in many places in Puglia. In Bari, there’s even a street where elderly women spend their days making this pasta on the sidewalk.

Burrata
This fresh cheese originated in Puglia but is now made throughout Italy. Burrata is crafted from mozzarella and cream.

Caciocavallo
A cheese from Puglia, though also made in other Italian regions. It has a distinctive conical shape as it is aged while hanging.

Friselle
In this region, friselle is often eaten as an appetizer. It’s a round baked bread with a hole in the middle, similar in shape to a donut, but with a completely different taste and texture. Traditionally, friselle is served with tomatoes, olive oil, and basil.

Taralli
A famous snack from Puglia, taralli are crunchy crackers shaped into rings. Traditionally flavored with fennel seeds, nowadays you can find them in all sorts of flavors.

Pasticciotti
The most famous pastry from Puglia, originating from the province of Lecce. It’s made of shortcrust pastry filled with custard and lemon. These oval-shaped treats are best eaten warm. The finest ones can be found in Galatina.

Wine

Puglia produces nearly thirty DOC wines and four DOCG wines. The region around Salento is known as Puglia’s best wine region, with some exceptionally high-quality wines. You can enjoy wine tastings and tours at various wineries in the area. Locorotondo and Martina Franca produce excellent white wines, usually made from the Verdeca or Bianco d'Alessandro grapes. The most famous native grape varieties in Puglia are the red Primitivo and Negroamaro. The latter is known for its bold, fruity character.

The best way to discover which wines from Puglia suit you is to go for a wine tasting, preferably at one of the region's many vineyards. A must-visit is the renowned Pastini vineyard in Martina Franca (GPS: 40.730812, 17.328272). Here, you'll get a tour explaining the organic wine-making process and enjoy several wine samples along with some delicious appetizers.

Beaches

Adriatic Sea
The most beautiful beaches in Monopoli are located along a coastal road that begins in the city of Monopoli and extends south to Capitolo, with a series of small and medium-sized bays, each with its own unique features. We visited Strand Cala Susca (GPS: 40.962100, 17.287970) and Strand Lido Santo Stefano (GPS: 40.928479, 17.331685). The latter was particularly stunning. There's a great restaurant, and we booked online in advance (€68 for two beds, an umbrella, and parking).

Ionian Sea
The most beautiful beach along this coastline, and perhaps in all of Puglia, is Punta Prosciutto (Parking: GPS: 40.295813, 17.771133). Here you’ll find stunning white sands, crystal-clear blue waters, and cozy eateries.

Bike Tour

Baja Bikes We booked the Bari Highlights Tour (€35 per person) online in advance, and it was a fantastic experience. Meeting point: Str. Vallisa, 81, 70122 Bari (GPS: 41.127362, 16.871360). We also booked a bike tour in Lecce through Baja Bikes, which was just as enjoyable!

Boat Tour

We rented a 5.80-meter motorboat for half a day from Freedom Motor Boat Rental in Torre Vado (€100) after booking online in advance. Meeting point: Corso Venezia, 129, Torre Vado (GPS: 39.831849, 18.276057). The enthusiastic team gave us excellent instructions. We had a wonderful time boating and swimming along the coast. While anchored near Grotta delle Tre Porte, I spotted two pairs of peregrine falcons perched peacefully on a cliff ledge.

Accommodations

Una Perle Nel Verde (GPS: 40.855920, 17.074761) Thursday, September 26 - Thursday, October 3, 2024.
Located 3 km west of Putignano, 40 km southeast of Bari. This B&B is a peaceful oasis with 5 suites and a lovely pool. The cottage is tastefully decorated, clean, and cool with air conditioning. The terrace is perfect for relaxing, and the host, Natalia, is incredibly friendly. The kitchen is excellent—the chef could easily work in a Michelin-starred restaurant!

La Casina Di Borgagne (GPS: 40.237390, 18.384161) Thursday, October 3 - Thursday, October 10, 2024.
Situated 250m southeast of the center of Borgagne, 30km southeast of Lecce, and 5km from the beach. A true oasis in Puglia, located on an olive farm. Comfortable rooms, great breakfast, and a pleasant pool area. Each room has its own patio with a view of the pool. The village with restaurants and a good pub is just a 10-minute walk away, and it’s only 5 minutes by car to the beach. Rino, Mirella, and their son Samuele make you feel welcome and go out of their way to ensure guests have a great experience. Perfect for exploring Salento by car (Lecce, Otranto, Gallipoli, and the coast).

Puglia Birding Sites (North to South)

Gargano National Park
90 km northwest of Bari. Oasi Laguna Del Re (visit by appointment: oasilagunadelre@gmail.com). GPS: 41.580734, 15.876754.

Alta Murgia National Park / Castel del Monte
40 km west of Bari. Near the towns of Ruvo di Puglia and Minervino Murge. Parking near the castle: GPS: 41.083346, 16.271940. A great area for observing steppe birds and birds of prey.

Gravina di Laterza
50 km south of Bari. Parking near viewpoint: GPS: 40.617769, 16.810291.

Natural Park Saline Punta della Contessa
5 km east of Brindisi. GPS: 40.616116, 18.020462.

Nature Reserve Le Cesine
16 km east of Lecce. Parking: GPS: 40.350463, 18.336356.

Capo d'Otranto
40 km southeast of Lecce. Parking: GPS: 40.132244, 18.497281.

Torre Sant'Emiliano
Just south of Capo d'Otranto. Parking: GPS: 40.094911, 18.496701.