From 2 – 17 September 2025, I went on a self-drive wildlife trip to Uganda with my wife in search of birds and other animals.
I visited Uganda earlier this year in January and was excited to show the country to my wife and enjoy the wonders of the Pearl of Africa together!

We started in Entebbe and drove our 4x4 Toyota RAV4 to Lake Mburo, the northern section of Queen Elizabeth NP, Bugoma FR and finally Murchison Falls NP and back to Entebbe.

Check out my trip report hereunder!

General
For general information on Uganda, please see my report here of my trip in January 2025.

Flights (KLM: KL0539)
02-09 – Amsterdam (11:00) – Kigali, Rwanda (19:35) (transfer time: 01:10)
02-09 – Kigali, Rwanda (20:45) – Entebbe (22:50)
16-09 - Entebbe (23:59) – Amsterdam (07:45+1) (direct flight!)
17-09 – Arrival Amsterdam (07:45+1)

Accommodations
1 night Entebbe (Oslo Gardens; Euro 20 p.p.p.n. incl breakfast)
2 nights Lake Mburo NP (Leopard Rest Camp, lux. safari tent: USD 75 p.p.p.n. incl Breakfast & Dinner);
3 nights QE NP (Engiri Game Lodge; total: USD 68 p.p.p.n. incl full board);
2 nights Bugoma FR (Bugoma Jungle Lodge; USD 130 p.p.p.n. incl. full board);
5 nights Murchison Falls NP (Murchison River Lodge: USD 115 p.p.p.n. incl. full board (agent tariff)
1 night Entebbe (Oslo Gardens)

Program Self Drive
Day 1 / 02-09 - Flight Amsterdam (11:00) – Entebbe (22:50). Get cash from an ATM at airport. Pick-up by driver from Oslo Gardens B&B. Night at Oslo Gardens B&B
Day 2 / 03-09 – Delivery Rental Car (09:00) at Oslo Gardens. Doing groceries. Drive to Lake Mburo (via Masaka Road; 250km, 6h). Night at Leopard Rest Camp
Day 3 / 04-09 – Game Drive Lake Mburo; Night at Leopard Rest Camp
Day 4 / 05-09 - Drive to Queen Elizabeth NP (via Ishaka, 160km, 3.5h); Game drive Mweya area (Start: GPS: -0.124544, 30.041191). Night at Engiri Game Lodge
Day 5 / 06-09 - Morning Game drive Kasenyi area (Gate: GPS: -0.074637, 30.037669). Afternoon Boat Tour Kazinga Channel (start: GPS: -0.125016, 30.047073); Night at Engiri Game Lodge
Day 6 / 07-09 – Game drive Mweya + Katwe Salt Lake (GPS: -0.128331, 29.873048) + Water Crater Viewpoint (GPS: -0.066235, 29.981754). Night at Engiri Game Lodge
Day 7 / 08-09 - Drive to Equator stop (20 min) at GPS: -0.002759, 30.000855. Drive to Bugoma Forest (250km; 5h); Night at Bugoma Jungle Lodge
Day 8 / 09-09 – Forest walk Bugoma Forest Reserve; Night at Bugoma Jungle Lodge
Day 9 / 10-09 - Morning walk Bugoma FR. Drive to Murchison Falls NP (via Hoima, Biso, Bugoigo, Buliisa; 150 km; 3.5h); Night at Murchison River Lodge
Day 10 / 11-09 - Game drive Murchison Falls NP; Night Drive; Night at Murchison River Lodge
Day 11 / 12-09 - Game drive Murchison Falls NP; Night at Murchison River Lodge
Day 12 / 13-09 - Boat Trip Nile (Start Paraa’s ferry crossing: GPS: 2.286707, 31.567151); Night at Murchison River Lodge
Day 13 / 14-09 –Game drive Murchison Falls NP; Night at Murchison River Lodge
Day 14 / 15-09 - Drive to Nakasongola (175km, 3h, 150 km north of Entebbe). Night at Norena Hotel Garden
Day 15 / 16-09 – Drive to Entebbe; afternoon at Oslo Gardens. Visit Botanical Gardens. Drop off rental car Oslo Gardens (19:00). Taxi to Airport Entebbe (23:59) - Amsterdam (07:45)
Day 16 / 17-09 - Arrival Amsterdam (07:45)

Locations

1. Entebbe Botanical Garden (GPS: 0.063432, 32.475321)
Beste place to go birding is the Botanical Garden. This is the only national Botanical Garden in Uganda. It was established in 1901 and strategically located on the shores of Africa’s greatest Lake, Victoria, just 3 km from Entebbe Airport. The gardens are an attractively laid-out mix of indigenous forest, cultivation, and horticulture, and a highly attractive destination to birdwatchers. Some of the birds that can (easily) be seen include: Reed Cormorant, African Openbill , Black and White Casqued Hornbill, Speckled Mousebird, Eastern Grey Plantain-eater, Great Blue and Ross Turaco, African Fish Eagle, Yellow-billed Kite (Black Kite ssp), African Palm Swift, Klaas Cuckoo, Diederik Cuckoo, Woodland Kingfisher, Red-chested Sunbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Olive-bellied Sunbird, Common Bulbul, White-throated Bulbul, African Thrush, Black-headed Weaver, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Splendid Starling, Red-billed Firefinch and much more. This time I did not see any Tantalus Monkeys or Black-and-White Colobus Monkeys which were here when I visited in January.
Opening hours: 9 am – 7 pm. The entrance fee is UGS 20,000 (Euro 4.76). Note that a guide is not compulsory but they often say it is (it costs USG 10,000 (Euro 2,38). As always, I just went solo and walked through the different habitats towards the banks of Lake Victoria.

Accommodation
Oslo Gardens (GPS: 0.08273, 32.45126) (8km from airport).
Beautiful Campsite and B&B near the airport and located directly on Lake Victoria. The campsite offers a stunning view of Lake Victoria. It features a great restaurant, and Norwegian owner Steinar (Uganda name: Salongo) is a wonderful host. Camping is $10 USD, and B&B is $50 USD, with nice, clean but small rooms. Beautiful garden and magnificent view over the lake. The road to the hotel is very bumpy. Pied Kingfishers nest in the banks at the parking place.

2. Lake Mburo National Park
Lake Mburo National Park is the nearest park to Kampala, making it an ideal first stop on a road trip towards Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The landscape is covered with extensive acacia woodlands and dotted with many lakes. Lake Mburo is also the smallest of Uganda’s savannah national parks – but don’t let its size fool you. The park is home to nearly 350 bird species and Zebras, Rothsschild’s Giraffes, Impala, Eland, Topi, Sitatunga, Buffalo, Defassa Waterbuck, Leopards, Hippos and Hyenas. There are no Elephants or Lions in the park. The park is suitable for walking and mountain bike safaris. It is the best place in Uganda to see the Giant Eland Antelope and hundreds of Zebras. Lake Mburo is home to many water and acacia-tree birds. Lake Mburo's swampy valleys, salt lakes, and forests provide a variety of habitats for birdlife. There are good possibilities of spotting the African Finfoot, Rufous-bellied Heron, Bateleur, Black-bellied Bustard, Coqui Francolin, Crested Francolin, Grey Crowned Crane, and Brown-chested Lapwing. At night you may see Black-shouldered Nightjar and Freckled Nightjar, but I never did.
From the Nshara Entrance Gate, you start your self-drive and easily connect to various accommodation facilities and activity points within the park. A few km further down near the banks of the lake there is a nice but simple restaurant: GPS: -0.637977, 30.952863. The 2-hour boat tours start here too (Rwonyo Jetty), usually at 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00. 16:00, unless there is few demand (check at the lodge).

Accommodation
Lake Mburo: Leopard Rest Camp (GPS: -0.53131, 31.01110)
An eco-friendly campsite nestled on the boarder of Mburo National Park, located just 2 minute drive from the Nshara Park Entrance Gate. They offer custom bike safaris, walking safaris and game drives both inside and outside the park. Lots of Zebra around. They have a variety of accommodation suited to all budgets, from camping with own equipment to lazy camping, to ensuite safari tents. They have a bar/restaurant where you can enjoy delicious meals. We enjoyed the stunning view of rolling green hills while listening to the sounds of hundreds of birds singing.
Next door is Rwakobo Rock Lodge (USD 85 pppn). The birding around this lodge should be amazing; Red-faced Barbet, Double-toothed Barbet, African Green Pigeon, Splendid Starling, Common Bulbul, Yellow-throated Greenbull. At night on the rocks, there is a good chance to see Freckled Nightjar.

3. Queen Elizabeth National Park
From open savannah to beautiful rain forest, dense papyrus swamps and the vastness of Lake Edward, it is no wonder that Queen Elizabeth National Park boasts one of the highest biodiversity rates of any game park in Africa. Queen Elizabeth is home to over 600 bird species, as well as a great number of large savannah animals. You can find (lions), elephants, buffalos, and leopards, but no rhinos. In fact, you cannot find a wild rhino anywhere in Uganda. You will have to visit the Rhino sanctuary (Ziwa Rhino Ranch) if you want to see one. Other than the big four, you will find different types of primates, hyenas, jackals, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos and what more. Surprisingly there are no giraffes or zebras in the park.

Common antelope species include Uganda Kob (black shins!), Bushbuck, Water Buck and Topi, which can only be found in the Ishasha plains. It’s very quiet in the park, so be prepared to not see many other cars. When driving, you may want to keep your windows closed when there are a lot of (horse)flies that bite.
You do not need a guide to enter the park with a private vehicle.

Whatever you do in Queen Elizabeth National Park, don't miss the boat tour (USD 30 p.p.) over the Kazinga Channel (northern part)! The channel/river connects the great lakes Lake Edward and Lake George. This is one of the best boat trips in Africa. You will see lots of elephants, hippos, buffalos, crocodiles and different types of birds. You sail in small boats and can get very close to the shore (and therefore to the animals).
The boat trips depart from the town of Katunguru, at the bridge over the channel. The afternoon (2:00 PM - 4:00 PM) is the best time, because then it is hot and all the animals come to drink from the water.
There is a small supermarket in Katunguru: Queen’s Way Supermarket: GPS: -0.122406, 30.047990 and a Shell Station: GPS: -0.121104, 30.048000.

The Mweya Peninsula (10km2), on the northern bank of the Kazinga Channel, is the most popular region of Queen Elizabeth National Park. This thin strip of dense vegetation is home to a plethora of wildlife, from elephants to banded mongooses (plenty at the Mweya Safari Lodge!).
There is a small Visitor Center here (GPS: -0.190542, 29.897985).
6km north of here, the Kabatoro Gate (GPS: -0.136305, 29.928418) in Queen Elizabeth National Park provides access to the Katwe Craters and Katwe Lake, formed by volcanic eruptions and now featuring salt lakes and birdlife (GPS: -0.128331, 29.873048). Just right of Katwe Lake is Lake Munyanyange (GPS: -0.134809, 29.890383), a bird sanctuary and flamingo migration site (July-August).

From here, drive a few km back and follow the Crater Drive, a scenic 27km breathtaking route passing by numerous volcanic craters and crater lakes against the breathtaking backdrop of the Rwenzori Mountains. The extinct craters (approx. 72 in total) are filled, variously, with lakes, forest and grassland. You’ll feel like you’re driving on a set of Jurassic Park. Highspots are the massive Kyemengo Crater and the lovely Lake Kitagata. You will pass the Water Crater Viewpoint (GPS: -0.066235, 29.981754). Drive 8km further and you will reach Queens Pavillion (GPS: -0.010821, 30.002003) on the eastern edge of the crater area, which has been visited three times by British royalty.  A temporary shelter at this site hosted H.M Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh in 1954; a permanent pavilion was built in 1959 for a visit by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. This was restored for a second visit by the Duke of Edinburg in 2007. A small information center and coffee shop stands on the site. The equator markers straddling the adjacent Kasese highway provide a popular photo opportunity.
From here take the Kasese Highway which will take you back to Engiri  Lodge (12km).

Accommodation
QENP: Engiri Lodge & Campsite (GPS: -0.13986, 30.05158)
I booked a room via Booking.com: Euro 342 (USD 405) for 3 nights in a Family Room, including full board.
Beautiful new place, it is in the park but you don’t have to pay park fees. Elephants come through the camp every morning and you can hear Hippos and Hyenas in the evening. They have a restaurant with fine meals. The tent is a real must-do to experience what sleeping in a wild park is like. The tent is perfectly furnished, nice beds and fresh smelling sheets. The security guard walks around all night, so no worries! The food is delicious and the staff super friendly.

4. Bugoma Forest Reserve
Located in Hoima district, Western Uganda, Bugoma Forest Reserve is bordered by Kyenjojo town to the Northeast and Lake Albert in the East. Bugoma Forest Reserve is one of the threatened natural forest due to illegal logging given the high demand for timber, settlement and farming. Many small holder and large scale farming especially of sugar cane and tobacco coupled with increased population and demand for settlements are conservation issues that are undermining the protection status of the forest.
Since 2020, Hoima Sugar Ltd has been involved in deforestation activities within the Bugoma Forest Reserve to expand its sugarcane plantations, a move that has drawn criticism from environmental and human rights activists. In 2016, the land was leased to Hoima Sugar for 99 years by Solomon Iguru Gafabusa, king of the ancient kingdom of Bunyoro-Kitara (one of five traditional kingdoms which hold autonomous powers to the central government in Kampala). He said the leased area was ancestral land and not part of the protected forest. After a won court case in 2019, the sugar cane company started clearing thousands of hectares in disputed sections of Bugoma Forest. The Ugandan government issued an order in June 2023 to suspend these clearing activities within the forest, but the conflict persists.

There are 221 birds species recorded in Bugoma making the forest a birding sanctuary. Some critically endangered, vulnerable and threatened species are found in Bugoma Forest, like the Nahan’s Fracolin (Francolinus Nahani) and Grey Parrot (Psittacus Erithacus). Guided birding walks are available from Bugoma Jungle Lodge and follow the trails of the community village walk and the internal loop trail at the lodge. Common birds in Bugoma Forest are the following: Little Greenbul, Green Hylia, Yellow-billed Barbet, Yellow–whiskered Greenbul, Western Nicator, Buff-throated Apalis, Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, Rufous Flycatcher Thrush, Olive Sunbird, White-thighed hornbill, Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill, Black-billed Turaco, Speckled Tinkerbird.

Accommodation
Bugoma Jungle Lodge (GPS: 1.229840, 31.038185) is an eco-lodge at the edge of Bugoma Forest Reserve, where all aspects of environmental protection, conservation and creativity are taken to high importance. The tented accommodations are surprisingly spacious and well-designed. Built on raised wooden decks with grass-thatched roofs, each tent feels like a proper wilderness retreat while maintaining comfort. The bathrooms are generously sized and include a bidet, which was an unexpected luxury in such a remote setting. Each tent comes with a spacious veranda where you can sit and watch Black-and-white Colobus Monkeys (and sometimes Ugandan Mangabey (subspecies of Grey-cheeked Mangabey) and Chimpanzees) jumping from tree to tree. Meals are served with forest views, making every dining experience feel special. The chef makes unbelievably good food!
The lodge was opened in 2018 to give an opportunity to visitors to visit Bugoma Forest and to have eco-tourism activities in the area. It is part of the conservation project of Association for Conservation of Bugoma Forest (ACBF). Built on a large forested area, some of it reforested, this is the perfect hidden forest experience. There is trail named Grey Parrot Trail around Bugoma Jungle Lodge. The trail is a 20-minute walk and free for lodge guests. You may see the critically endangered Grey Parrot here!

5. Murchison Falls National Park
Murchison Falls National Park is Uganda’s largest park in the North, a day's drive from Kampala. The park protects a large area of African savannah intersected by the River Nile. It is named after the dramatic Murchison Falls, where the Nile River explodes violently through a narrow cleft. The park contains large herds of elephants, buffalo, giraffes and lions. This area is likely to be the best place to see Oribi, a mid-sized slender antelope. It is easily recognized by the black round spot under its ears. They like to mingle with Jackson’s Hartebeest that also occurs here.
The best wildlife sightings happen in the Northern portion of the park, so you’ll want to enter at the Bugungu gate to access this portion of the park easily. You’ll want to focus all your game drives in the area between Mubako Gate and Tangi Gate (near Pakuba Airfield).
The northern part of the park is the savannah area and is nowadays accessed by a bridge over de river Nile, just south of Paraa (GPS: 2.283447, 31.564340).
You can do a self-drive safari in Murchison Falls National Park. Self-driving allows you to explore the park at your own speed, stopping where you want, and spending as much time as you like at different locations.
We took a boat trip to Murchison Falls (USD 35 pp) which we enjoyed and - with the wonderful help of the manager of the Murchison River Lodge - we managed to go on an exiting night safari (USD 50 pp)!

Best Routes for Wildlife Sightings
You’ll want to drive the Queen’s Track Albert Track, and Victoria Track near the Pakuba Airfield repeatedly for the best chance of seeing lions, elephants, leopards, and giraffes. The Buligi Track which is 7 km north of the bridge, is known among the major game viewing safari tracks in Murchison Falls NP. The Buligi Track passes through different types of vegetation, including savannah grasslands, acacia, riverine and woodland vegetation. This track hosts numerous mammals like lions, giraffes, elephants, leopards, hyenas, warthogs, bushbucks, jackals, buffaloes etc.
The names of the tracks are searchable on Maps.me.

Accommodation
Murchison River Lodge (GPS: 2.252641, 31.523828):
The lodge is located very nicely on the Nile and after dark, the lodge provides escorts to and from your tent due to the threat of hippos coming up onto the paths. The entire property is beautiful, with lush gardens and many beautiful birds. The restaurant is very good and staff is wonderful. The full board price includes all meals and complimentary afternoon tea & coffee. They even give you a packed up breakfast if you’re leaving early on safari. A swimming pool, free WiFi in the pool lounge, warm hospitality and easy national park access from the south bank to the north bank (due to a recently constructed bridge across the Nile) make for an easy stay. They have a choice of accommodation, the cheapest being USD 75 for a camping tent (incl full board).

Driving from Bugoma FR to Murchison River Lodge (150 km; 3.5h): via Hoima, Biso, Bugoigo (GPS: 1.903761, 31.416530), Buliisa (GPS: 2.118661, 31.416772), Ngwedo (GPS: 2.139188, 31.469891). If it rains, then drive via the Bugungu Gate to MRL (pay park fee; most of it is tarmac road), otherwise drive to here (GPS: 2.220799, 31.505693) and go the last 5 km’s further north to the lodge.