My sister Hester and I went on a self-organized 12-day birding trip to Georgia in May 2024.
We had the best time together in this beautiful scenic country, although the weather was rainy for most of the twelve days we were there.
Hereunder you will find our program and some information about the places we visited.

General
The small country of Georgia is located between the Caspian and the Black Sea, with Russia in the north and the mighty Caucasus mountain range acting as the backbone of the area. It is a wild and beautiful country with a very interesting bird life. In Georgia there are several spectacular birdwatching locations, with very different characteristics. Each of them is interesting in terms of species composition. On a relatively small territory there is a multitude of diverse ecosystems from Alpine meadows to semi-deserts, wetlands, costal landscape, numerous lakes and rivers, caves, magnificent mountain-chains and peaks covered with eternal snow. This is very favorable for bird watching, as in a short period of time and in area very close to each other it is possible to see birds from totally different habitats.
Georgia boasts the title of the oldest wine-producing region in the world. The tradition of winemaking here dates back over 8,000 years. Kakheti is one of the most important Georgian wine regions that occupies the easternmost part of the country. Approximately, three-quarters of the vineyards of Georgia wine country are cultivated here.
It is two hours later in Georgia than in the Netherlands. In April/May it is dark at 8:30 PM.
In the mountains in the North it is still possible in May be particularly fresh, so bring gloves and a hat.

Flight
Wed 1 May: Flight Amsterdam (10:40) – Tbilisi (17:15)
Sun 12 May: Flight Tbilisi (11:15) – Paris (13:55 / 16:30) - Amsterdam (17:45)
Georgian Airways / AirFrance : Euro 540

General Route

1. Arrival at Tbilisi; birding in the city.
2. Drive north to Stepantsminda (160km) with some stops on the way;
3. Birding the mountain ranges at Stepantsminda for a few days;
4. Drive south back to Tbilisi (160km) and then East to Dedoplistskaro (130km) which is the entrance gate to both Vashlovani National Park and Chachuna Managed Reserve.
5. Birding a few days at Vashlovani National Park (night in the park at Ranger Station in Mijniskure);
6. Birding a few days at Chachuna Reserve (night in the reserve near Dalis Mta reservoir);
7. Drive back to Tbilisi via David Gareji Monastery and with some stops on the way.

Due to rainy weather, we visited both Vashlovani NP and Chachuna NP only once. Unfortunately, the rain prevented us from spending the night in the two parks.

Money
The national currency in Georgia is the Georgian Lari.
10 Lari = Euro 3,40 (May 2024)
100 Lari = Euro 34,50

ATM in Tbilisi, near Hotel Zerta Old Tbilisi: GPS: 41.690111, 44.808422

Rental Car
Although the terms & conditions don’t explicitly say so, car hire companies such as Local Rent will not permit you to take a rental car into Vashlovani NP. Instead, you should opt for a company that specializes in off-roading. TomTom navigation doesn’t know Georgia so bring off-line Google Maps of the area.
Visiting Stepantsminda in the north can be cold and snowy so a 4x4 rental car is advisable here as well.
We hired a Mitsubishi Pajero via FSTA Car Rental: Euro 350 (10 days). Pick-up + drop-off at hotel in Tbilisi). The communication with FSTA was sometimes slow and difficult and when we finally got the car dropped at our hotel, it was a different one then the 4x4 we explicitly wanted. This gave us a lot of stress since visiting the two national parks in the south-east requires a 4x4 car and for the prior application of the required permits we have had to register the license plate number of the 4x4. So the northern part of Georgia, we drove a normal car which was fine. In the end, it worked out and when we got to Dedoplitstkaro, the Pajero 4x4 was delivered there. However, next time, we won’t use this rental car company again.

Driving a 4x4: shifting through 4-wheel modes sometimes requires a stop to put the gearbox in neutral or park (depending on the type of car). Always put the hubs in locked position (push button on the dashboard) otherwise the 4-wheel does not work.
2H: good tarmac roads
4H: rainy or snowy conditions on reasonable roads
4HHC: usual dirt road and off road conditions if speed > 50km/h
4LLC: difficult off-road conditions; start in 2nd gear, not use 5th gear; max speed: 60km.

Tbilisi
With more than 1.5 million inhabitants, Tbilisi, founded in 458 and one of Europe’s oldest capitals, is the largest city in Georgia. At the heart of the city lies historic Old Town, which was built during the early Middle Ages. This two square kilometer section of the city is a must-see for any visitor to Tbilisi, as it houses some of the city’s most iconic sites.
We were warned about the many stray dogs in the streets in Tbilisi, and therefore a lot of dog shit. Fortunately, we didn’t see a lot of dogs.

Must visits:

1. Mother of Georgia (GPS: 41.688116, 44.804569). Just on the north edge of the Botanical garden.
2. Narikala Fortress. It was built in the 4th century. On the east side next to the Mother of Georgia statute are the ruins of Narikala Fortress with incredible views over the city.
3. Leghvtakhevi Waterfall (GPS: 41.686767, 44.809021). From the place with the (famous) sulphur bathes, a footpath continues into the gorge to a waterfall that comes down from the Botanical Garden. Along the little creek it is very common to see Grey Wagtail (Grote Gele Kwikstaart). Also Dipper (Waterspreeuw) is regularly seen there.
4. Holy Trinity Cathedral. With a height of 87 meters, the Holy Trinity Cathedral is the largest Orthodox Cathedral of Georgia, and its golden dome can be spotted from pretty much everywhere in Tbilisi.

Restaurants
One of the best restaurants in Tbilisi: Shemomechama, 9 Samghebro Street (Old Tbilisi, near the sulfur baths, close to Hotel Zerta) GPS: 41.689229, 44.809491. In Georgian, the word shemomechama means something along the lines of ‘I accidentally ate the whole thing’. This restaurant features an open kitchen, so you can watch your food being prepared. They have some of Tbilisi’s best khinkali (dumpling with a variation of meat, vegetables and spices).

Driving North to Stepantsminda on the Georgian Military Highway, Pasanauri (18 km North of  Annanuri) is the best place on the highway to stop for lunch – the difficult part is choosing which of the half a dozen restaurants to try. One of the best are restaurant Guda: GPS: 42.360300, 44.684442 and Restaurant Korbuda: GPS: 42.371368, 44.680956.

Birding Hotspots

Tbilisi

1. Botanical Gardens, Tbilisi (GPS: 41.687075, 44.808765). On the south side of the old town of Tbilisi, next to the Narikala Fortress and the Mother of Georgia Monument. The garden started as a royal fortress garden in 1625. Entrance fee: GEL 4 p.p. Opening hours: Every day from 9:00 to 17:30.
   Target Birds: White-throated Dipper (Waterspreeuw), Red-breasted Flycatcher (Kleine Vliegenvanger), Eurasian Scops Owl (Dwergooruil).
2. Tbilisi Reservoir (GPS: 41.759102, 44.844545). Tbilisi Reservoir was created in 1953 to serve Tbilisi with water. For this purpose, three salt lakes were flooded by the river Iori. This is the biggest lake in Tbilisi. Here you can find water birds in bigger numbers. The species number for the lake almost reaches 60. The north-eastern shore is most of the time the better side for waterbird observation.
3. Metekhi Bridge (GPS: 41.690347, 44.810191). 200 m north of our Hotel Zerta. On the cliffs under Metekhi Church it seems possible to observe Wallcreeper (Rotskruiper) from Metekhi Bridge. We tried a few times but didn’t see one. Actually, I can’t imagine that a Wallcreeper would come here since these cliffs are small and seem not very suitable for the species.

North (road to Stepantsminda) (order from south to north)

1. Lake Lisi (GPS: 41.740381, 44.739266) Just north of Tbilisi (20 min). Lake Lisi is a small, reed-fringed lake that is easily accessible from Tbilisi. The lake has many species typical for the region. Many Eurasian Bitterns (Roerdomp) and one of the few spots in the country where Paddyfield Warbler (Veldrietzanger) breed regularly. There is a 3 km concrete route around the lake. The section along the northern half of the lake is most interesting for birding. There is a marked bird trail that starts from the right side at the beach front you will walk up in the hills. You will be rewarded with a spectacular view over the lake.
2. Ananuri Fortress (GPS: 42.163821, 44.703651). Halfway from Tbilisi to Kazbegi. Just next to Zhinvali Reservoir that was created during the Soviet era in the 1980s to provide water for the rapidly growing Tbilisi. Around the coffeeshops near Zhinvali Reservoir should be a reliable place for Semicollared Flycatcher (Balkanvliegenvanger).
   Target Birds: Semi-collared Flycatcher (Balkanvliegenvanger), Red-breasted Flycatcher (Kleine Vliegenvanger), Green Warbler (Groene Fitis), Common Redstart (Zwarte Roodstaart: ssp met roestrode buik!), Ortolan Bunting (Ortolaan), White-winged Tern (Witvleugelstern), Whiskered Tern (Witwangstern).
3. Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument (GPS: 42.493804, 44.452793). This is a monument built in 1983 to celebrate the friendship between Soviet Georgia and Soviet Russia. The monument is a large round stone and concrete structure overlooking the Devil's Valley in the Caucasus mountains. Inside the monument is a large tile mural that depicts scenes of Georgian and Russian history.
   Target Birds: Alpine Accentor (Alpenheggenmus), Red-billed Chough (Alpenkraai), Alpine Chough (Alpenkauw), Water Pipit (Waterpieper), Ring Ouzel (Beflijster).
4. Jvari Pass (GPS: 42.504888, 44.454373), at 2.400 m altitude, a little south of Kobi. Note that there are usually a lot of lorries and trucks going into Russia, so it can be very busy.
   Target Birds: Twite (Frater), White-winged Snowfinch (Sneeuwvink), Alpine Accentor (Alpenheggenmus: grijzer dan heggenmus met zwarte vleugelbaan) , Red-billed Chough (Alpenkraai), Alpine Chough (Alpenkauw), Water Pipit (Waterpieper), Ring Ouzel (Beflijster).
5. Kobi (GPS: 42.557135, 44.498088), a typical Georgian summer village in the shadow of a gigantic rock face, near Almasiani on the way to Kazbegi. We tried here for Wallcreeper, but couldn’t find it.
6. Kazbegi / Stepantsminda: at 1.800 m altitude. The town is called Stepantsminda but is most usually referred to as Kazbegi by visiting birders. Try to see the “Caucasian Five”; Caucasian Snowcock (Kaukasisch Berghoen), the Caucasian Grouse (Kaukasisch Korhoen), the Caucasian (or Mountain) Chiffchaff (Bergtjiftjaf: bruin, niet geelachtig) , Great Rosefinch (Grote Roodmus: grijsgele snavel! lange staart), and Guldenstadt’s Redstart (Witkruinroodstaart: groter dan gewone roodstaart).
   Target Birds: Bearded Vulture (Lammergier), Caucasian Snowcock (Kaukasisch Berghoen): the yodelling sound is often heard through the valleys; the call is somewhat reminiscent of the curlew), Caucasian Grouse (Kaukasisch Korhoen: check the steep bare slopes), Great Rosefinch (Grote Roodmus), White-winged Snowfinch (Sneeuwvink), Twite (Frater), Mountain Chifchaff (Bergtjiftjaf; bruiner dan gewone tjiftjaf die gelig is), Güldenstädt’s Redstart (Witkruinroodstaart), Wall Creeper (Rotskruiper: note the red in the wings in flight), Red-fronted Serin (Roodvoorhoofdkanarie), Alpine Accentor (Alpenheggemus), Rock Bunting (Grijze Gors), Horned Lark (Strandleeuwerik), Alpine Chough (Alpenkraai), Ring Ouzel (Beflijster), Red-Throated Pipit (Roodkeelpieper). Water Pipits are everywhere!

There are sort of three main places to look for the key birds:

1. First, you can park just above town at roughly GPS: 42.6529, 44.6553 near an old metal rail car/trailer and walk a short path through some scrub to a scree field, scanning from the bottom or wherever you like in the vicinity.
2. Second, you can continue a bit further, passing just around a ridge, and parking at about GPS: 42.6575, 44.6596 then walking 100-200-300m up the grassy hill to wherever you like in order to scan the valley above.
3. Third, you can scan from the vicinity of Gergeti Trinity Church (2.170m altitude) on the opposite side of the valley, parking at roughly GPS: 42.6632, 44.6197 or a bit before in a second lot. There are also some trails above the lower parking lot at Gergeti Trinity Church that could be explored and/or used to get to higher elevation.

Also a good spot: Park at and walk a dirt road quite a ways up the valley with good birding the whole way. Lots of Mountain Chiffchaff here, as well as Dunnock (Heggemus) and Fire-fronted Serin (Roodvoorhoofdkanarie).
Also worth checking: In spring, the dam () and the Sea Buckthorn (Duindoornbosjes) to the north of there is interesting for wintering species.
7 km north of Stepantsminda are 2 waterfalls (big and small) which are worth a visit. Park around here () and walk for 30 min. The big waterfall is the nicest ().

South-East (road to Dedoplistskaro (to be visited in chronological order)

1. Zemo Teleti Hills (GPS: 41.6568, 44.8148). 4 km south of Tbilisi. Good place to find Krüper’s Nuthatch (Turkse Boomklever: in the pine woods). Also Green Warbler (Groene Fitis) and Mistle Thrush (Grote Lijster).
2. Ponichala Reserve (GPS: 41.628991, 44.923042). Just south of Tbilisi and east of Zemo Teleti. A good place to find Eurasian Scops Owl (Dwergooruil), Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Mibo), Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Klebo), European Green Woodpecker (Groene Specht), Syrian Woodpecker (Syrische Specht) and Golden Oriole (Wielewaal). We made a nice walk here and saw quite a few birds here!
3. Kochebi Lake (GPS: 41.443873, 46.148174). Just south of Dedoplistskaro. Small lake with possibility to see Little Stint (Kleine Strandloper), Common Ringed Plover (Bontbekplevier), Black-winged Stilt (Steltkluut), Wood Sandpiper (Bosruiter), Slender-billed gull (Dunbekmeeuw), Common Quail (Kwartel), Lesser Grey Shrike (Kleine Klapekster), European Roller (Scharrelaar), Eurasian Teal (Wintertaling), Common Redshank (Tureluur), Ruff (Kemphaan), Ruddy Shelduck (Casarca), Eurasian Skylark (Veldleeuwerik) and Common Kestrel (Torenvalk).
4. Vashlovani National Park (see below).
5. Chachuna Reserve (with Dalis Mta reservoir) (see below).
   Target Birds: Demoiselle Crane (Juffer Kraanvogel), Finsch's Wheatear (Finsch' Tapuit), Western Rock Nuthatch (Rotsklever), Calandra Lark (Kalanderleeuwerik: black underwings!), Black Francolin (Zwarte Frankolijn), Green Warbler (Groene Fitis), Menetries's Warbler (Menetries' Zwartkop), Armenian Gull (Armeense Meeuw; donker oog!), Steppe Eagle (Steppe Arend), Pallid Harrier (Steppe Kiekendief), Long-legged Buzzard (Arendbuizerd), Steppe Buzzard (Steppe Buizerd (ssp)), Cinereous Vulture (Monniksgier), Lesser Kestrel (Kleine Torenvalk), Levant Sparrowhawk (Balkansperwer).
6. Eagle Gorge is a deep river canyon carved from limestone on the northwestern edge of Dedoplistskaro. The combination of ashen cliffs and brilliant green forest is spectacular. The canyon extends for 1.7 km, its pock-marked cliff walls and lush tree canopy a habitat for more than 60 species of native and migratory nesting birds. Black storks and griffon vultures are the easiest to spot – their wings cast long shadows against the rock as they sail above the treetops. There are no eagles in Eagle Gorge, though!
   To visit Eagle Gorge, park in the small car park (GPS: 41.486313, 46.093808) – a 10-minute drive from the center of Dedoplistskaro – then follow the marked walking trail north into the canyon. The path has a slight incline, but it is mostly flat and manageable. There are a few livestock gates along the way – just push them open to pass, and be sure to close them behind you. Various lookout and photo points are marked along the trail with sign boards.
   Very good accommodation near Eagle Gorge: Teo’s Cottages: GPS: 41.481658, 46.093931.
7. Jandara Reservoir (GPS: 41.432541, 45.198126). This is a large waterbody on the border with Azerbaijan to the south-east of Tblisi. It is an important site for both migratory and nesting waterfowl birds.Good place to see Armenian Gull, White-winged Tern and Whiskered Tern. Worth a visit on the way to David Gareja Monastry.
8. Kapatadze Lake / Sakhare Lake (GPS: 41.574447, 45.319995). The dried banks may contain Yellow Wagtails (Gele Kwikstaart) and Demoiselle Cranes. You may also see Ruff (Kemphaan), Wood Sandpiper (Bosruiter) and Common Ringed Plover (Bontbekplevier). Worth a visit on the way to David Gareja Monastry.
9. David Gareja Monastry (GPS:  41.447533, 45.376194). A beautiful, scenic area with great birding. The monastery itself is also scenic and makes for a nice visit. David Gareja is a rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex located in the Kakheti region of Eastern Georgia, on the half-desert slopes of Mount Gareja. The complex included hundreds of cells, churches, chapels, reflectories and living quarters hollowed out of the rock face. The building and surroundings are without doubt worth visiting. Bird around the Monastery; there is a short trail up behind it (from a little hut / parking garage, fairly obvious), and the road for 300-400m before the monastery.
   Target Birds: Green Warbler (Groene Fitis), Red-breasted Flycatcher (Kleine Vliegenvanger), Eastern Orphean Warbler (Oostelijke Orpheusgrasmus), Eastern Black-eared Wheater (Oostelijke Blonde Tapuit), Finsch’s Wheatear (Finch’ Tapuit), Pied Wheatear (Bonte Tapuit), Mountain Chiffchaff (Bergtjiftjaf), Rock Sparrow (Rotsmus), Black-headed Bunting (Zwartkopgors), Rosy Starling (Roze Spreeuw), Western Rock Nuthatch (Rotsklever), Calandra Lark (Kalanderleeuwerik (black underwings!). Check also for Caucasian Agama (greyish/brown lizard).

Vashlovani National Park / Chachuna Reserve
Dedoplistskaro is the town near the two parks where you need to go to pick up park entrance permits. It is located 130 km or approximately 2.5 hours by road from Tbilisi. If you are self-driving, the best route is via the Kakheti Highway.

The drive east from Dedoplistskaro starts out on a very well maintained paved road where you can easily drive 100 km/h. When that ends though you are spit out into what can only be described as the worst road on the planet. Seemingly once fully paved, it’s now just giant pothole after giant pothole. As you start down this road look to your right and you’ll see fields of wheat. Parallel to this god awful road on the other side of the wheat field is a dirt road used by farmers. There are multiple turn offs to get to the dirt road and I suggest using them. You can easily go 60 km/h on the dirt road compared to 10 km/h at best on the main road. Eventually you’ll get to the tiny, depressing village of Kasristkali and from there you hit another dirt road that takes you into the park.

Permits
If you go to Vashlovani and Chachuna you will require two separate national park permits (Vashlovani and Chachuna), and one separate border police permit (for the Vashlovani area; free of charge). You need to have your passport and car passport, plus your entry and exit dates for Vashlovani NP and Chachuna Managed Reserve. You also need to make sure you have cash for the payment.
In Dedoplistskaro, you need to go first to the Vashlovani Visitor Center (GPS: 41.4625, 46.1036) and then to the Border Police building (GPS: 41.4723, 46.0854), to collect permits and pay your NP fees.  Visitor Center opening hours: Every day from 9:00 to 18:00. Here you can also buy a detailed map of the park (3 GEL) that shows all the 4×4 roads and trails through the park as well as the key sights and points of interest. Inside the park there are signs at major crossroads that give distances and estimated driving times to points of interest.

Contact
The easiest and quickest way to arrange all of this is in advance, via Nino at the Vashlovani Visitor Center. She speaks good English and can inform you about everything you need, including reservations for the shelters/ranger station accommodation in the parks. Contact her on +995 577101849, or by email at nseturidze13@gmail.com. Explain your plans to Nino in advance and she’ll make the reservations and give you all information.

Dedoplistskaro - Accommodation
In Dedoplistskaro, we stayed at Savanna Guest House, which is located in the center of town and offers both private rooms and self-contained cabins and cottages. Owner Temo and his family are warm hosts and extremely knowledgeable about the national park. They offer full board (the food is great) and can help with organizing drivers and guides for the area.

When visiting Vashlovani National Park or Chachuna Managed Reserve, bring enough water, food and petrol because you can’t get it anywhere in the parks. There is a shop next to the visitor center and various others dotted around town. There are also facilities such as ATMs and petrol stations in town.

From the town of Dedoplistskaro you can either drive South-West to go to Chachuna Managed Reserve or drive South-East to go to Vashlovani National Park.

In Dedoplistskaro is a very good winery where they make excellent wine: Nasrashvili Family Winery. The family has 7 hectares of vineyards and a beautiful tasting room and cellar. The label’s branding is fun and youthful, and the wines themselves are mature and well-considered. GPS: 41.466953, 46.105015.

Vashlovani National Park
Vashlovani National Park is home to some of Georgia’s most unique and diverse landscapes. Here you’ll find narrow canyons and jagged peaks, expansive savanna dotted with pistachio trees, bubbling mud volcanoes, barren plateaus, forested mountains, and a snaking river forming the border with Azerbaijan. This huge swathe of land, located in the very southeastern corner of Georgia, is spectacularly beautiful and full of surprises.
One important note: after rainfall, it can be very difficult to drive through the park. The mud roads can get very muddy and therefore very slippery and dangerous. You might get stuck in these conditions, so pay attention to the weather forecast. During our week here, we had quite some rain which prevented us to visiting the parks more than once.

There is a guesthouse called Dilicha (or Farmer's house) in Kasristskali (40km from Dedoplistskaro) close to the park entrance: GPS: 41.294364, 46.522445. We had booked it in advance but had to cancel it due to the rainy weather.

You may want to drive in a big loop in the park that takes you all the way down to the Azerbaijani border and back. This is an established route with several visitor’s centers and checkpoints along the way. It includes six major points of interest which you will find on the map that is available at the visitor center:

• Bear Canyon (you will drive along the bed of an ancient river that carved through these badlands one day).
• Pantishara Canyon (viewpoint is at the top of a canyon, but it’s not quite the badlands view you are looking for. This canyon is more covered in trees and grass).
• Alesilebi viewpoint (beautiful viewpoint at the bottom of the canyon where you get a great 180 degree view of the badlands from the dried river.)
• Samukhi Valley (Gazelles roam here!)
• Usakhelo Viewpoint (This viewpoint gives you an awesome overlook of the badlands area near the Azerbaijan border. You’re still too far to see the river that forms the border from here, but you can see the road wind down the valley through the badlands. There is a steel observation deck you can use to get a view straight down).
• Mijniskure (more info hereunder).

Mijniskure
Marking Georgia’s final frontier and the start of Azerbaijani territory, Mijniskure sits on the bank of the Alazani River. Another border security checkpoint and a collection of cottages are arranged along the riverbank. Accommodation (tourist shelter) is available at Mijniskure for 50 GEL for a double per night: GPS: 41.111730, 46.646109. Each has a private bathroom with solar heated shower, flushing toilet, and solar electricity for charging devices. The bungalows are rented on a self-catering basis. You must bring your own food and also cooking equipment. You can use your own sleeping bag or rent bed sheets from the Savanna Guest House in Dedoplistskaro. Book direct via Nino at the Vashlovani Visitor Centre. Mijniskure is the only place within the national park where you will find a river flowing. This is the only place where you can get water for your travels.
We had booked it in advance but had to cancel it due to the rainy weather.

Chachuna Managed Reserve
Chachuna Managed Reserve (5.200 hectares) is located at a distance of 50 km south from Dedoplistskaro municipal center, in the extreme southeast of the country on the border between Georgia and Azerbaijan. You will find here a startling variety of landscapes, including sprawling meadows, imposing limestone cliffs, and loamy hills covered in steppe plants, which, if you follow the Iori River, will eventually turn into a unique riverine forest. There is a variety of fauna. There are raccoons and jackals, along with endangered reed cats, wolves, and more. In 2020, a camera trap even caught a picture of a lynx. Up to sixty species of birds live there, including the magnificent Black Francolin (Zwarte Frankolijn) and the Eastern Imperial Eagle (Keizerarend). Griffon Vultures (Vale Gier) and Egyptian Vultures (Aasgier) make their nests in the caves of Chachuna’s limestone cliffs.
There is a Supplementary Feeding Station for Vultures (follow the yellow signs). You may see here all the European vulture species. Natia Zurashvili from the Chachuna Managed Reserve administration (natiazurashvili32@gmail.com) informed me that it is at all times possible to visit the feeding station, but it is advisable to bring some meat/bones to put there and wait for the vultures to come.

You can choose to stay at a hotel in Dedoplistskaro and then get up early for your 1 hour bumpy drive to the park or stay at the basic accommodation in the park itself:
Chachuna Cottage (suggested and reservation made by Nino), a little south of the Dalis Mta Reservoir (GPS: 41.220846, 45.972761). You have to bring your own food and water. A double room: GEL 40. The room has a shower and a small kitchen. We had booked it in advance but had to cancel it due to the rainy weather.
Close by (2km) is the feeding station for vultures.

There used to be a hotel (Hotel Dalis Mta), near the Dalis Mta Reservoir (GPS: 41.278163, 45.906616) but that has gone out of business.

Dalis Mta Reservoir
This is a lovely place to walk around. The towers houses Lesser Kestrels and in the reed beds west of the reservoir we heard and saw (with the help of my i-phone) our only Black Frankolins of the trip.

Mud Volcanoes
From the Dalis Mta reservoir it’s a further 14 km through an increasingly lunar-esque landscape to the Takhti-Tepha Mud Volcanoes (GPS: 41.2459, 45.8439). Dramatic mountains rise in the distance while occasional narrow canyons mark the otherwise flat and barren land. The mud volcanoes are spread out across a small knoll and vary in size, the largest bubbling cauldron of mud being about 2 meters in diameter. The mud itself is not hot, and some of the mini-volcanoes have it oozing down the side, creating fascinating patterns in the earth. From the hilltop there are fantastic views of the surrounding landscape, back towards Dali Mta Reservoir and beyond.

Accommodation
1. Hotel Zerta Old Tbilisi, Tbilisi (GEL 163 p.n.). GPS: 41.688804, 44.809945. Recently opened hotel in the old town. Each room is crafted with an art theme. Friendly and helpful staff. Clean and great location. Good breakfast. If you are on the 3rd floor it may be a little difficult because there is no lift. They offer airport transfers.
2. Capra Hotel Kazbegi (GEL 490 3.n.). GPS: 42.661100, 44.645615. Great view from your balcony on Gergeti Trinity and Mount Kazbek. Delicious breakfast, friendly and helpful staff, clean and nicely decorated rooms. In the evening, we spent lovely times with a glass of wine near the fire place.
3. Savanna Guest House, Dedoplitskaro (GEL 84 p.n.). GPS: 41.464100, 46.095056. Comfortable location in the center of Dedoplistskaro. Very clean, cosy, modern place with a large yard. Friendly helpful staff and owner Temo. Tasty food! We stayed in one of the two lovely cottages in the garden.
4. Tourist Shelter in Mijniskure, Vashlovani (GEL 50 p.n.). GPS: 41.111730, 46.646109. You must bring your own food and cooking equipment. You can use your own sleeping bag or rent bed sheets from the Savanna Guest House in Dedoplistskaro. Unfortunately, we didn’t stay here due to the rainy weather.
5. Guesthouse Dilicha/Farmer’s House (GEL 120 p.n.). GPS: 41.294364, 46.522445. It is a farm with rooms near the village Kasristskali, close to the entrance of Vashlovani. Hosts Dali and her husband are most welcoming. They serve breakfast with traditional Georgian dishes with large portions and home-produced products. Unfortunately, we didn’t stay here due to the rainy weather.
6. Chachuna Cottage (GEL 40 for double room p.n.). GPS: 41.220846, 45.972761. Basic accommodation, managed by the park rangers. You have to bring your own food and water. The room has a shower and a small kitchen. Pay in Dedopliostskaro, Chachuna administration (the same building as Vashlovani administration and tourist information center). Unfortunately, we didn’t stay here due to the rainy weather.
7. Teo's Cottages, Dedoplistskaro (GEL 90 p.n.). GPS: 41.481658, 46.093931. The location of the cottages is great, immediately next to Eagle Gorge, perfect for hiking around. David and Teo are amazing hosts, and Teo's food super delicious. We had great views on a pair of Golden Orioles in the garden.
8. Guesthouse Gareji, Udabno (Euro 34 p.n.). GPS: 41.501097, 45.375907. Due to our change of plans as a result of the rainy weather, we included a stopover in Udabno, near the David Gareji Monastery. This area is quite good for birds. The guesthouse is rather basic but sufficient for 1 night. The lady running the place was very nice. Next door is a restaurant with a very nice roof terrace.

Itinerary

Wed 1 May – Fly Amsterdam (10:40) – Tbilisi (17:15). Send border stamps to Nino. Pick-up from airport by shuttle from Hotel Zerta Old Tbilisi. Visit ATM near hotel. Walk to Metekhi Bridge and/or visit Botanical Gardens. Diner at Shemomechama,  Night in Tbilisi (Hotel Zerta Old Tbilisi).

Thu 2 May – 09:00: Delivery rental car at Hotel Zerta. Walk to Metekhi Bridge. Visit Tbilisi Reservoir. Drive to Stepantsminda (160km). Birding stops at Ananuri Fortress, Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, Jvari Pass. Afternoon birding at Stepantsminda. Night in Stepantsminda (Capra Hotel Kazbegi).

Fri 3 May – Birding around Stepantsminda. Night in Stepantsminda.

Sat 4 May – Birding around Stepantsminda. Night in Stepantsminda.

Sun 5 May – Drive to Dedoplistskaro. Birding stop at Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument. Pick-up permits at Border Police and pay park fees at Dedoplitskaro Visitor Center. After checking in hotel, birding at Kochebi Lake. Night in Dedoplitskaro (Savanna Guest House).

(The next days were planned to visit Vashlovani National Park but the rainy weather prevented us from going there).

Mon 6 May – Visit and birding Chachuna Protected Area. Night in Dedoplitskaro (Savanna Guest House).

Tue 7 May – Visit and birding Dedoplistskaro area, including St Elias Monastery and Eagle Canyon. Night in Dedoplistskaro (Savanna Guest House).

Wed 8 May – Visit and birding Dedoplistskaro area, including St Elias Monastery and Eagle Canyon and some little lakes near Dedoplistskaro. Night in Dedoplistskaro (Savanna Guest House).

Thu 9 May – Visit and birding Vashlovani National Park. Night in Dedoplistskaro ((Teo's Cottages).

Fri 10 May – Morning birding at St. Elias Monastery and Kochebi Lake. Drive and visit to David Gareji Monastery (130km). Afternoon birding in Udabno area. Night in Udabno (Guesthouse Gareji). 

Sat 11 May – Early morning birding David Gareji Monastery. Drive to Tbilisi via Pinichala Reserve. 20:00: Return rental car at Hotel Zerta. Night in Tbilisi (Hotel Zerta Old Tbilisi).

Sun 12 May – Shuttle (09:00) from Hotel Zerta to airport. Fly Tbilisi (11:15) – Paris (13:55 / 16:30) - Amsterdam (17:45)